Pearls

Pearls are grown in molluscs found in saltwater or freshwater around the globe. The process of creating a pearl can occur naturally (by chance) or are cultured: where the process is initiated by the pearl farmers inserting a donor oyster’s Mantel tissue into host oysters. There are four main mollusc types used for cultured pearls: Akoya, South Sea and Tahitian pearls which grow in the sea and Freshwater pearls that grown in lakes and rivers. 

Responsibly sourcing natural and cultured pearls present unique challenges. Makers who are committed to ethical sourcing will need to find suppliers who are able to answer questions about the origins of their pearls and the conditions under which they were grown. Find links below to two videos which demonstrate the process of pearl formation in Natural and Cultured conditions.

We’ve explained some of the key issues around pearl sourcing below and how to source pearls responsibly. 

Image by Mara Bragaglia

Supply Chain

As the description above outlines, pearls and pearl farming are embedded within natural environments and therefore impact local communities and waterways in connection to these operations. Pearl farming is undertaken on a large-scale, small-scale and as an artisanal endeavour. Key issues surrounding the pearl supply chain include sourcing pearls which meet social and environmental standards bespoke to each location globally. For example, mollusc shells naturally capture carbon during formation and ensuring that the repurposing or disposal of mollusc shells after the pearl and food source is extracted in undertaken responsibly, to help reduce possible negative impacts on the often-fragile ecosystems. The traceability of pearls within the global supply chain has much to work on to make it clear where pearls originate from and under what conditions. Despite this there are organisations and suppliers working toward high ethical standards and traceable supply chains. 

Sourcing Conditions

Among initiatives to develop more sustainable pearl farming practices, the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) have developed an initiative to support sustainable pearls via fostering marine conservation and livelihoods in the Pacific (#SDGAction8047) in connection with Goal 14: Life Below Water. 

The communities in these often-remote areas rely on pearl farming as a source of food and income, yet it is in their interest to ensure the quality of their waterways are high as this achieves beautiful pearls. Careful water management and consideration for the surrounding marine life and environment requires effective conservation in relation to the farming practices.  

Our research in this area is limited, and we welcome you to get in touch if you can contribute toward this Resource. 

Visit our Supplier Directory and Sustainable Pearls for more information on responsibly sourced pearls. 

Marc’Harit Pearls

Images of Keshi & South Sea Pearls from jeweller Mara Bragaglia