Ethical Metalsmiths
“We envision a world where a beautiful object doesn’t have an
environmental or human toll”
This blog post is a contribution by Ethical Metalsmith (EM) Board Member and Chair of EM’s Education Committee, Lucy Louise Derickson (on behalf of EM). Lucy is also Assistant Professor and Coordinator of the Jewelry & Metalsmithing/Craft Area at Montgomery College, Maryland, USA
Ethical Metalsmiths is a volunteer run, membership based, non-profit organization for jewellers, metalsmiths, artists, designers, educators, students, buyers, suppliers and enthusiasts who are united by the interest in inspiring responsible practices in the field of jewellery and metalsmithing. We are committed to transparent, responsible and environmentally-sound practices for all facets of the jewellery industry, and strive to educate and connect people globally, from mine to market.
As an organization, we help unpack the ways we can continue to do better, whether that is at the industry level or in an individual artist workshop. 100% sustainability is far fetched, but how close can we get? We want to discover what are best practices, side-by-side with our members, while we acknowledge these are ever changing and will vary based on location.
Who can be a member of Ethical Metalsmiths? Anyone who feels the same.
Since our founding in 2004 EM has worked toward this mission, approaching it from a variety of perspectives and strategies which is demonstrated in the amazing programs we have developed over the years. In the early days, you may have been introduced to EM via a lecture by one of our founders, or enthusiastic members, sharing news of the human rights abuses and environmental destruction discovered while researching the mining industry.
EM’s first mission was to figure out how to encourage ethical gold mining practices, by encouraging jewellers and metalsmiths to demand better from their suppliers. Eventually, in 2013 EM successfully organized 23 jewellers and major US refiner Hoover & Strong to import the first two kilos of Fairmined gold to the U.S. This effectively changed the way gold is bought and sold, from no provenance to 100% fully traceable. Fairmined gold purchases facilitated by EM lead to over $12,000 in premium payments to the then Fairmined certified Aurelsa Gold Mine in Relave, Peru. Miner income from premiums was put back into the business and the local community as democratically decided by a broad group of elected stakeholders.
*Aurelsea mine is no longer in operation, or certified.
This set a new pace for EM, and over the next 10 years we saw major growth in our membership and extended community. Until this point, EM was a legal 501c3 through a fiscal sponsorship arrangement with Earthworks. In 2014 EM began the slow process of becoming an independent 501c3, non-profit organization. At this time the Futuring Committee, a group of 8 individuals convened in person for the first time in Berkeley, California. This committee redefined the mission for the organization, effectively creating a path forward for Ethical Metalsmiths. These individuals eventually became EM’s first official Board of Directors.
MISSION: Inspire responsible jewellery practices through education, connection, and action.
Through questioning and interrogating accepted standards, we foster curiosity to find best practices. We disseminate this information and build calls to action through our various programs, including but not limited to exhibitions, webinars, mentorship, awards, events, and research projects.
Students are the future, and so EM focuses a lot of our educational programs around academia, finding multiple ways to engage students. For example, since 2014, our EM Student Committee (led by and for students) has managed the So Fresh + So Clean Student Exhibition, selecting outstanding artists to receive generous cash awards including the honor of the EM Emerging Artist. All exhibitions are showcased on our website with our most recent installment having launched August 1st (2023).
Our most well known program Radical Jewelry Makeover (RJM) embraces all aspects of the EM Mission. RJM began in 2007 and there have been 20 installments all over the world so far, with many planned for the coming semesters. Each RJM installment is centered around a learning community, whether that be a single school or a number of educational institutions within a specified region working together. There are many stages to the project, beginning with a jewellery donation drive and a didactic motivating Launch Party! Once donations are collected, participants will sort the materials and begin making new work from the load which is then celebrated in a final gallery exhibition.
Radical Jewelry Makeover has continued to grow beyond its original goal, creating satellite programs including the RJM Artist Project, which invites and showcases artists who have participated in a past RJM instalment while they dive more deeply into the motivations and questions RJM presents. Additionally, just this year we launched the Rejewelry Competition welcoming even more makers into our RJM community, so they can utilize our RJM circular supply chain of materials. Look for the final exhibition at the 2023 New York City Jewelry Week!
EM also wants to engage makers who are ready to embark into the business side of jewellery, and we are very proud of our Emerging Jeweler Mentorship Program. Since launching in 2021, we have engaged multiple cohorts of emerging makers by building a community between those with experience and those seeking support in developing their jewellery business. There are three stages featuring nine mentored live sessions to support mentees comprehensive responsible jewellery business development. The mentors are leaders in the responsible jewellery movement, who have offered to share their strengths to the targeted areas of the program including business start up, designing collections, and marketing.
Additionally, EM works directly with educators, and will be doing so in our upcoming webinar International State of Practice. This webinar session will engage current and future EDUCATORS in the field of Jewellery and Metalsmithing. We will provide information and examples of ways educators (globally) are changing their programs, studios, and curricula to address issues of social and environmental impact. We look forward to working through the issues together, as we develop resources as a COLLECTIVE of global colleagues.
The Source is EM’s digital publication, and is free to access on our website. Here you will find articles that cover all facets of the ethical jewellery world: from helpful studio findings and exciting mining initiatives to educational resources and compelling personal experiences. We hope you join us on our quest for answers, growth, equity and justice for all those involved in the jewellery industry.
EM has even more programming and resources and we encourage readers to visit our website to learn more, and what’s better… to get involved! We have a very welcoming and active community of members. EM’s Circle forum is an online platform where you can share ideas and information, ask questions, seek support, and request feedback from fellow EM members around the world. Additionally, you will find commission leads, job and exhibition opportunities, upcoming events, and a myriad of relevant conversations. We look forward to engaging with you in the threads!
A huge thank you to Lucy for sharing a comprehensive overview of the colossal achievements and positive action created through Ethical Metalsmiths. Please take your time to explore the different programmes via the embedded links (in bold within the main text and via the buttons below) and peruse the timeline below, which outlines how EM have gone from strength to strength over almost 20 years. Lastly, make sure to register for the upcoming International State of Practice webinar: (14/09/23).
Ethical Metalsmiths Timeline & Notable Accomplishments
2004
Christina Miller and Susan Kingsley met in Montpelier, Vermont with the intent to lay the groundwork for establishing Ethical Metalsmiths. They receive support and guidance from Earthworks associates, including Payal Sampat (then director of the No Dirty Gold Campaign) and her colleague Radhika Sarin.
2005
Susan Kingsley and Christina Miller presented for the first time in Cleveland Ohio, at Kent State University, and included a panel discussion with Payal Sampat (Earthworks No Dirty Gold Campaign), Glen Miller (Geology Professor, Univ. Nevada at Reno), and Tom Goldtooth (Dine/Dakota leader, Minnesota).
From here on out, EM members regularly attend conferences and give public lectures that raise awareness about jewellery materials sourcing, mining issues, and what can be done about these issues, nationally and internationally.
2006
Earthworks continues to support the growth of EM and agrees to be EM’s fiscal sponsor.
EM led the Society of North American Goldsmiths to pass a resolution in support of responsible mining. SNAG Resolution in support of Ethical Mining
Earthworks acknowledges and applauds the SNAG resolution.
2007
EM launches the popular program Radical Jewelry Makeover, with its first instalment in Richmond, VA. RJM continues to do new instalments at educational institutions annually moving forward.
2010
The first international RJM was held at Queensland College of Art Griffith University Brisbane Australia.
2012
EM embarks on a letter writing campaign to the Alliance for Responsible Mining and Fairtrade International recommending the maintenance of 100% traceable gold options for small-scale jewellers.
2013
EM Members travel to Relave, Peru for the annual Alliance for Responsible Mining 2013 workshop and a guided visit to (then) Fairmined AURELSA.
EM creates and invites jewellers to join the Ethical Sourcing Consortium, successfully organizing 23 jewellers and a major US refiner to import the first two kilos of Fairmined gold to the U.S.
2014
The EM Futuring Committee (who became the first official Board of Directors) is formed and efforts begin to establish EM as an independent 501c3, non-profit organization.
The Futuring Committee (8 individuals) convened in person for the first time in Berkeley, CA and laid out a new mission and vision for the organization.
EM develops a new extension of Radical Jewelry Makeover, the RJM Artist Project.
The EM Student Committee is formed at Virginia Commonwealth University by a group of graduate students. The committee produces So Fresh + So Clean, the annual international student exhibition with an Emerging Artist award.
EM creates an email forum allowing members to communicate directly and share experiences.
EM members travel to the Fairmined certified mine Iquira in Colombia, for the annual 2014 Alliance for Responsible Mining workshop.
2015
EM receives the Articles of Incorporation via the State of Ohio. These documents act as an official charter of the organization’s existence as a nonprofit.
Members of EM exhibit and donate responsibly made jewellery at the Gardens of Gold auction in New York City.
EM hosts the Fight Against Wildlife Trafficking Auction.
2016
Select EM Board and advisors attend and present at the first Jewelry Industry Summit, at the Fashion Institute of Technology, NYC..
EM Begins collaboration with the Society of North American Goldsmiths SWEEPS program.
2017
EM is officially granted 501c3 status. Can now operate independently from Earthworks, and graciously thanks Earthworks for their support!
EM Board Member Susan Wheeler develops the Chicago Responsibly Jewelry Conference. EM supports, presents and attends the conference annually moving forward.
2018
EM launches a new user-friendly website!
EM, in collaboration with Wellness for Makers, develops the Criticalsmiths Research Series.
EM supports and promotes the Better Without Mercury project.
EM Members organize and visit the Potentate Mine in the Sapphire Mountains near Philipsburg, Montana.
2019
EM installs the Designer Self Assessment, a new tool which allows designer level members to assess their efforts towards a more sustainable practice.
2020
EM launches the Academics in Pandemic exhibition.
EM launches The SOURCE, our digital publication.
2021
EM Collaborates with 8 major industry organizations on a free industry-wide anti-bias training, I.D.E.A.
EM launches the Emerging Jewelers Mentorship Program.
EM develops the Action Coalition.
EM develops a new user friendly community Circle Forum.
EM develops a webinar series International State of Practice.
2022
EM hosts the first Ethical Metalsmiths Town Hall Meeting.
2023
Selection of Board and Committee members tour Hoover & Strong.
EM redevelops the website membership platform.
EM develops the Grantorship Program.
EM develops a new extension of Radical Jewelry Makeover, the Rejewelry Competition.
EM collaborates with Christina T. Miller Sustainable Jewelry Consulting in providing access to the course, "Foundations for Sustainable Jewelry Practices.”
EM plans the second installment of the International State of Practice webinar for September, 2023. Registration is open!