Inhorgenta Munich 2020: International Tradeshow Introduces Sustainability Programme

The Incorporation’s Director, Ebba Goring and Ethical Programme Officer, Emily MacDonald attended Inhorgenta in Munich last month to view the fairs new sustainability programme of events. This was a great opportunity to research international progress on ethical making and sustainability in the jewellery sector.

 

Entrance hall of Inhorgenta Munich. Image: Messe Munchen

 

Inhorgenta is the largest trade fair for jewellers in Europe and is held annually in Munich. It hosts hundreds of independent makers and large brands selling their work on wholesale, suppliers to the jewellery trade including stone dealers, packaging and display suppliers, technology specialists and service providers. In addition to the fair stands there is an exhibition and programme of events including a seminar programme. This year for the first time, the exhibition and talks focussed on sustainability and issues existing in jewellery supply chains.

Another great addition to the event was the British Pavilion, showcasing makers from around the UK including Scotland’s own Heather McDermott.

The CEO of Messe München, where Inhorgenta is held, Klaus Dittrich said of the event, “Inhorgenta Munich is constantly growing. Sustainability and future retail are topics that concern the entire jewelry industry… We want to make our mark and be a catalyst for moving these issues forward.”

 

Image: Messe Munchen

 

We were most excited for the sustainability seminar programme which included talks on ethical sourcing, gold, diamond and gemstone supply chains, using technology to drive sustainability, the power of the sustainability narrative in branding, pearl farming in the pacific islands and community development, climate change impacts on supply chains and pearl farming as a method for sustainable development. The sustainability exhibition at Inhorgenta was about pearl farming, paired with an exhibition about the future of jewellery retail and incorporating new media forms into the customer experience. Through a variety of virtual media forms, the sustainability exhibition demonstrated how pearls are cultivated and what sustainable pearl farming looks like.

 

Inhorgenta 2020 Exhibitions, “Future of Retail” and “Sustainability”. Image: Messe Munchen

 

Virtual book telling the story of sustainable culture pearl farming at the Inhorgenta Sustainability exhibition.

 

We attended as many talks as we could fit into each day! Our favourite talks were from Dr. Laurent Cartier from the Swiss Gemmological Institute. Laurent is a researcher who explores sustainability in pearl farming and he co-founded the Sustainable Pearls Initiative and the Gemstones and Sustainable Development Knowledge Hub. His talk was about the  processes involved in cultured pearl farming and how if done sustainably, this process can not only promote community development and island economies but can also be used as a method to increase marine biodiversity. Pearl farming, he argued, can be used to promote many of the UN sustainable development goals including goal 1: no poverty, goal 2: zero hunger, goal 8: decent work and economic growth, goal 12: responsible consumption and production, goal 13: climate action and goal 14: life below water. Laurent’s talk highlighted how sustainably sourcing materials can enact positive change in the world.

You can read more about sustainable pearl farming on the UN Sustainable Development Goals Partnership Platform here.

 

Setting of the seminar programme. Image: Messe Munchen

 

Another engaging talk was given by Ryan Taylor, chief officer of tech start-up Consensas, about how technology and data collection can be used in gold supply chains from conflict affected regions to increase transparency. Ryan Taylor was behind the Fair Trade Jewellery Co. for years, the first jewellery business in North America to offer Fairtrade Gold and so he has a career of knowledge in the complexities of gold supply chains. He is now the chief officer of Consensas, a software that manages data on due diligence and risk in complex value chains, like that of artisanal and small-scale mined gold from conflict affected regions. With big plans for the jewellery industry and beyond, Consensus is an exciting space to watch for developments in ethical sourcing of raw materials and in proving traceability in supply chains. 

We also heard our friend Conny Havel from Fairmined speak about the benefits of bringing Fairmined metal into your jewellery business. It was great to hear from jewellers in the audience about their positive experiences of being able to offer Fairmined metal to their clients.

 

Conny Havel from Fairmined speaking to attendees at Inhorgenta. Image: Messe Munchen

 

Between the talks we also visited some of the hundreds of supplier stands to scope out new suppliers for our ethical making resource. Among the suppliers we got to meet at the fair was Copenhagen based pearl supplier Marc’ Harit who provide a large variety of pearl types with direct knowledge of many of the pearl farms they source from and Munich based gemstone dealer Ceylons, providing sapphires from Sri Lanka where they share ownership of mines and have close relationships with their Sri Lankan partners. We also spoke with Copenhagen based gemstone supplier Wennick-Lefevre who supply stones from Sri Lanka, Madagascar and Burma, they also remain close with their suppliers and stones cutters. Another company present who we did not have the opportunity to meet, was the Antwerp based lab grown diamond suppliers, Madestones.

It was a pleasure to speak with suppliers from different countries who share the passion for promoting fair and responsible practices in the industry.

 

Image: Messe Munchen

 

Inhorgenta was a whirlwind of jewels, design, and innovation. It was incredible to witness progress in the field of sustainable and ethical making at such a large scale international trade event. We hope future years at Inhorgenta continue to promote this work and that the message spreads to all exhibitors and attendees.

The Incorporation believes that ethical making isn’t about trying to fix everything all at once but about uniting the industry to increase awareness and practice transparency throughout supply chains. We would like to thank the organisers of Inhorgenta for shedding light on these issues and committing to raising awareness.

For more information about Inhorgenta Munich:

Website

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To purchase sustainable pearls:

Marc Harit Pearls from around the world

J. Hunter Fiji Pearls from Fiji

Sea of Cortez Pearls from Mexico

Kamoka Pearls from Tahiti

 

Interested in sustainability and ethical making in the jewellery industry?
Continue to browse our content on the Incorporation of Goldsmiths’ Ethical Making Resource.


Ethical Journey Case Study: Sally Grant

As part of our maker case study series, we speak to Burntisland based maker Sally Grant about her ethical making approach. Through this series of posts, we aim to highlight that ethical making isn’t an all or nothing approach, more often than not, the process is a journey.

 

Sally Grant in her workshop. Image by James Robertson

 

Describe your journey of becoming a maker?

My love of design and craftsmanship has informed my work from the very beginning. I studied 3 Dimensional Design at Grays School of Art in Aberdeen. Following graduation I worked in a number of creative environments while establishing my jewellery business. These included marketing and creative direction with a design consultancy, gallery assistant and florist. During this period I undertook a two year apprenticeship with a renowned jeweller and Goldsmith, Tony Thomson in Oxford. It was here I learned the practical skills of making in precious metals, gold, silver and platinum and was properly introduced to the world of gemstones. Tony’s workshop was filled with a lifelong collection of unusual fossils and stones gathered from all over the world. This experience still informs my work today.

 

A selection of Sally’s tools. Image by James Robertson

 

Tell us about your work and approach.

I create jewellery predominately to commission, incorporating precious metals and gemstones. I have a limited edition and one-off piece collection available for sale through exhibitions and by appointment at my studio. I have exhibited my jewellery in galleries and exhibitions in the UK, Europe and America.

Exploring and re-interpreting the imagery and patterns found in natural landscapes using photography, hand carving and texturing techniques are central to my jewellery collections. The technique of photo-etching allows me to translate images into textural designs on precious metals.

I am also drawn to gemstones with unusual inclusions and formations that resonate with the images I collect. These stones are natural and unique and when combined with an etched pattern or a simple setting, they compliment each other.

My creative process is inherently linked to the skills and craft of making each piece and my commitment to honest, clear design principles and craftsmanship informs every piece that I make.

 

Making a hand carved wax gemstone setting. Image by James Robertson

 

Etching process. Image by James Robertson

 

Etching detail. Image by James Robertson

 

Photoetching can create intricate and detailed patterns. Image by James Robertson

 

Photoetching can create intricate and detailed patterns. Image by James Robertson

 

When did you start thinking about taking steps to be more ethical in your business, was there a key moment?

Research early in my career informed me of the challenges faced by both the gemstone trade and gold mining. I have been following the pioneering work of Bario Neal Jewellery, industry leader in ethical sourcing in the USA since their launch in 2008.  I began to question my work practice and I realised that we have a responsibility to know where the materials we use are from. That evidence seemed lacking in my early career. My work is about truth to materials and nature and I’ve made a point of tracking down materials that have the same truth and provenance, materials that are reflective of the values I apply to my designs.  Sourcing ethical precious metals and gemstones is hugely important to me as it is the only way to guarantee the products that I am buying have come from a fully traceable and sustainable supply chain.

 

A selection of jewellery on permanent display in Sally’s workshop. Image by James Robertson

 

What steps have you taken on your ethical journey?

I am a member of the Fair-trade Goldsmiths scheme and I am committed to buying Fair-trade golds. The overall objective of the Fair-trade standard for gold is to create opportunities for artisanal and small-scale miners and their communities, empowering them to bring about change through trade, and delivering economic, social and environmental transformation and restoration. I am keen to buy gemstones which have been sourced with the same approach.

Tell us about your experience of making these steps.

As a small business, offering Fair-trade precious metals to my customers when it first became available was expensive as choices were limited and suppliers offered the metals with minimum order conditions. Today, Fair-trade golds are much more readily available. I have refined my work practice to utilise the materials available. In recent years, Fair-trade and ethically sourced diamonds and gemstones have become more accessible to jewellers in the UK and I now regularly use them in my work.

 

Rock texture detail for a hand carved textural ring design. Image by James Robertson

 

Why do you think it is important to take these steps, make these changes?

It is absolutely necessary for all makers to understand the importance of ethics and sustainability in their work. I would encourage all makers to follow the UN Sustainable Development Goals to understand the need for change and to learn of ways that they can apply changes to their practice. It is important to remember that small changes can make a huge impact.

What challenges have you faced in regards to ethical making and what areas do you think need improved to support your ethical making journey?

The diamond and gemstone industry requires significant improvement and more transparency in the supply chain.

What are your ethical making plans for the future?

I will continue to offer Fair-trade golds to my customers.

I recently made a ring for Elements Festival incorporating a MOYO gemstone.  The stone was sourced via a pilot scheme introduced in Tanzania to empower women miners to work safely, mine better, improve financial security and create stable, equitable markets for trade.  An an estimated 30% of artisanal and small-scale miners are women. Tanzania, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Ethiopia, Malawi, Madagascar, and Ghana have particularly high numbers of women miners.  At the heart of the pilot project are the Tanzania Women Miners Association (TAWOMA) supported by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the international development agency PACT alongside Anza Gems and Nineteen48 Gemstones. I think it’s very important that these women are supported and they are given a voice and an equal platform from which to work and trade. The organisation also helps with education and this is also a key factor in providing equality for them.

 

Sally Grant 18ct Fairtrade Gold ring featuring a MOYO garnet. Image by James Robertson

 

The MOYO gemstones have only recently become available to purchase, the gemstone I have bought is from this first collection. I know that the pilot has been a huge success – the future of the programme relies on this continued support.  I plan to create a collection of pieces inspired by the miners story to give my customers the opportunity to have a deeper connection with the places and the people living and working where the jewellery supply chains begin.

Thank you Sally for sharing your ethical journey with us.

For more information about Sally Grant:

Website

Instagram

Pinterest


Ethical Journey Case Study: Hannah Louise Lamb

In the first of our series of ethical journey case studies we speak to Musselburgh based maker, Hannah Louise Lamb. Through this series of posts we aim to highlight that ethical making isn’t an all or nothing approach, more often than not, the process is a journey. We ask makers to share their experience of this journey to ethical making.

 

Hannah Louise Lamb in her workshop. Image by Ailsa Leonard
Tell us about your work and approach.

I specialise in creating bespoke jewellery pieces that reflect life’s personal stories, cutting intricate depictions of coastlines and landscapes near and far. My designing is intuitive, informed by a continued appreciation for the world around me at home on the coast of East Lothian or from my childhood in Cornwall.

Inspired by the rugged beauty of nature and the idea that jewellery can encapsulate the cherished moments of our lives, my pieces reflect coastlines, skylines and landscapes of special significance to each of us.

A graduate of Glasgow School of Art and The Royal College of Art, I have completed commissions for The Bodleian Library, The Scottish Government and Scottish Opera as well as taking part in international residencies and workshops.

I currently sell my work through galleries and shops across the UK and the USA, designing heirloom-worthy jewellery to be passed on for generations to come.

 

Coast Rings by Hannah Louise Lamb

 

When did you start thinking about taking steps to be more ethical in your business, was there a key moment?

I’d been trying to find out ways of making my business more ethical, and started doing research into materials, but found what was available quite restrictive so shelved it for a couple of years, and then when Ian from PMW posted on social media about his event Goldflair, I messaged him for advice on using Fairmined metals, and he was so helpful I decided there and then to try again to source ethical metal. It’s much easier now to source what I need than it was a few years ago. Another big turning point was the 2019 symposium run by the Incorporation of Goldsmiths, Making Impact, where we were asked to make an Ethical Pledge, which was a fantastic ask, and has made me commit to some of the ideas I had been floating!

 

 

Image credit: James Robertson
What steps have you taken on your ethical journey?

I’m now a Fairmined Licensee, which means I can use Fairmined silver and gold for my designs, and they get hallmarked with the Fairmined mark at Edinburgh Assay Office. I’m also a registered jeweller under the Goldsmith’s scheme, which means I can buy Fairtrade metal. Where Fairmined or Fairtrade isn’t available, I offer 100% recycled metal as standard and I source my gemstones from ethical companies. I’m also recycling and re-purposing customer’s existing gold and gemstones into new pieces for them, which is a lovely thing to do for sentimental reasons, but also from an ethical perspective.

At my home and workshop I use Ecotricity, so all my business energy use is from green sources. I’ve changed all my packaging to sustainable mulberry leaf paper boxes and FSC certified cardboard jewellery boxes, and now post out orders in fully recyclable cardboard boxes. Every piece is hand made by myself and my assistants here in the UK.

 

Image credit: James Robertson

 

Tell me about your experience of making these steps?

Registering as a Fairmined Licensee was an easy process, Fairtrade was trickier but there had been an ongoing problem with their registration which is now fixed.

Why do you think it is important to take these steps, make these changes?

All these changes have increased my business costs, but i think it’s a price worth paying to know that, for example with the Fairmined metal, that miners and communities are being paid and treated fairly, and that with the packaging changes that I’m not adding to plastic waste when I send out an order. My business is paying towards the cost of the switch to Fairmined, but I offer it as an option to buyers, for a small increase in cost, which I cover some of. I like giving my customers the option.

 

One of Hannah’s Coast Rings back from Hallmarking, with the additional Fairmined mark.
Image Credit: James Robertson

 

What challenges have you faced in regards to Ethical making and what areas do you think need improved to support your ethical making journey?

It would be great if more metal products were available in ethical materials, such as silver tubing, chain, cufflink fixings, earring backs etc, but I’m hoping in time these will be readily available. Also with pricing, these cost so much more, many times the price for silver, which is hard to factor into my costings when making jewellery from these materials.

What are your ethical making plans for the future?

I would love to reach a point where all my designs can be made in ethical materials, but at the moment it’s just where the right material is available to me. The world is changing and as more of us ask for ethical supplies, the more we can find and use.

Thank you Hannah for sharing your ethical journey with us.

For more information about Hannah Louise Lamb:

Website

Instagram

Facebook

 


Ethical Making Pledge

The Ethical Making Pledge is collaborative project between the Incorporation of Goldsmiths and the art colleges in Scotland that have jewellery and silversmithing courses at HND level and above. The Pledge represents the Incorporation’s and the art colleges efforts to implement ethical making practices into the curriculum and workshop methods in their jewellery departments. This includes introducing ethical sourcing as a primary concern in the procurement of precious metals.

To help make the pledge meaningful and fit for purpose in each of the seven art colleges in Scotland that have jewellery and silversmithing courses, each college nominated two student ambassadors to spread awareness about ethical making and work with the the Incorporation to achieve the goals of the pledge. The student ambassadors will visit the Incorporation of Goldsmiths in Edinburgh twice a year to work together to increase ethical making practice in the art colleges.

The Incorporation of Goldsmiths also visits the college workshops with their Ethical Making Jewellery Advisor, Shirley Lowe, to give talks and tutorials about how to introduce ethical making practices into their workshop practices on both large and small scale.

Learn more about the Pledge and the Incorporation of Goldsmiths’ wider Ethical Making Programme here.

Ethical Making Student Ambassadors 2018

Pictured are student ambassadors at the Incorporation of Goldsmiths Ethical Making Symposium (clockwise from top left): Nicholas Harrington (City of Glasgow College), Barbara Shearer (City of Glasgow College), Shirley Lowe (Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art and Design, Dundee), Daniela Groza (Edinburgh College of Art modelling some of her work), Georgia Phillips (Edinburgh College of Art) and Isla Cruickshank (Glasgow School of Art). Photography: Colin Hattersley.

Originally published on October 3rd  2018 by Emily MacDonald

 

 


Ethical Making Pledge Update

If the jewellery industry is to become more sustainable, fair and safe, it is critical for students of jewellery and silversmithing to learn about provenance as part of their education. If this information is available when students are learning how to make and design, on graduation they will already be equipped to consider and implement a fair approach to their practice.

This is why the Incorporation launched the Ethical Making Pledge. The purpose of the pledge is to increase awareness of issues in the jewellery industry and to help students and staff implement ethical making practice into how jewellery and silversmithing is taught. The goals of the pledge are to implement ethical making practices into three key areas.

  1. Lectures and curriculum
  2. Workshops practices and
  3. The procurement of metals.

 

Representatives from the seven Jewellery and Silversmithing departments in Scotland’s art colleges sign the Incorporation of Goldsmiths’ Ethical Making Pledge, March 28, 2018

Since the launch of the Pledge in March, students and staff from each college have been improving practice in how they make and teach jewellery. The drivers of the Pledge in the colleges are the student ambassadors. These are two aspiring students from each college, nominated by their department leaders to help implement better practice in their department. The ambassadors are doing this through engagement with other students and by demonstrating the methods they have learned in their own practice. The ambassadors are supported by the Incorporation through training sessions and access to resources.

Ethical Making Student Ambassadors at the Elements Festival of Jewellery , Silver and Gold in Edinburgh, November 19th, 2018

 

Here are just a few of the changes that the departments have made this year.

Daniela Groza from the Edinburgh College of Art organised a sustainable fashion show and plans to do this event again in 2019.

Shirley Warnock-Lowe, designer in residence at Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art and Design in Dundee, was one of the student ambassadors for DJCAD before she graduated in May 2018. Shirley has now been working with the Incorporation on the Pledge by giving talks and demonstrations to students about ethical making she has trialled herself. This has included natural hand dying fibres, making wire from scrap metal, recycling glass for new pieces, how to use substitutes to harsh chemicals for pickles, patinas and rouge, salt water etching, innovative packaging ideas and more. Shirley has inspired many new students to start their own research into ethical making and try new methods.

The student ambassadors have been campaigning for change by distributing information about what ethical making means, encouraging students to collect and recycle metal scrap for reuse and to use alternatives to chemicals. Many of the college workshops have switched their pickling solution to a less harmful, citric acid pickle, some are also now using recycled filament in their 3D printers and some colleges are already offering 100% recycled metals to students.

Edinburgh College of Art students collection of metal scrap for reuse

The department heads, tutors and technicians have been working with the Incorporation on the Pledge from the outset. They have made changes in how they supply materials; workshop practices and they have introduced new projects and briefs that will teach concepts of ethical making such as ‘material matters’ briefs where students engage with the value of materials beyond just the economic value.

We are seeing great change happening in the college’s jewellery departments in Scotland and this is thanks to the enthusiasm and collective effort of the student ambassadors and jewellery department staff.

What’s next?

The Pledge Programme will see new courses and projects in the Scottish colleges in 2019 and further changes in their workshops towards more sustainable and responsible practice. More students are incorporating research of issues in the industry into their dissertations, so we expect to see more of this in the degree shows this year, which will stimulate conversation about these issues beyond college walls. The Incorporation will continue their work with students and staff and support their efforts to increase ethical making practice in the art colleges in Scotland.

Here’s to 2019!

Originally published December 6th 2018 by Emily MacDonald

Ocean Plastics Find New Life In Jewellery

Dr Katharina Vones turns ocean plastics into biodegradable materials for jewellery

In 2017, a whale was euthanised off the West Coast of Scotland. Scientists discovered four kilos of plastic bags in its stomach. The same year, a killer whale named Lulu was found dead on the pristine shores of Tiree. Lulu’s body contained the highest levels of polychlorinated biphenyls ever recorded.

Did you know that each year between 4.8 and 12.7 million tonnes of plastic enters our oceans? If we continue at the current rate, by 2050 there will be more plastic in the ocean than fish.

Dr Katharina Vones of Edinburgh Napier University is working as part of a team there to address startlingly high levels of pollution by transforming ocean plastics into a new biodegradable material that can be used to make jewellery.

Katharina and her co-investigator Ian Lambert of Edinburgh Napier University had their first ocean plastics scoping expedition to the Isle of Harris in August, as part of her project funded by the Carnegie Trust for the Scottish Universities. They are now using the gathered ocean plastic to create a new material in conjunction with a biodegradable PLA (polylactic acid). The two types of plastic are combined to produce a filament for 3D printing, the uses for which are limited only by the imagination.

Ocean Plastics on Scotlands West CoastPlastics found washed ashore on the Isle of Harris.
Photos taken by Dr Katharina Vones during her plastics scoping expedition this summer.

Katharina, who describes herself as a digital jeweller, also works at the Edinburgh College of Art, and is half-way through an EU funded project as part of the Horizon 2020 WearSustain initiative.

This project focuses on developing interactively playful wearables that can be used in a health and wellbeing context from sustainably produced and smart materials. Her collaborator is electronic engineer Dr Lourdes Alwis, who specialises in sensor development using optical fibres. The resulting convergence of technical and design expertise embraces the narrative of interdisciplinarity that is at the heart of promoting innovation within interactive craft.

Prototypes of the pieces she has developed for the WearSustain initiative, as well as material samples showing her processes from another project she was previously involved in at the Centre for Art and Design Research at Edinburgh Napier University [ “New Processes for Transforming unexploited Textiles into high value Products”, Principal Investigator: Dr Sam Vettese, funded by the SFC Textile Futures Forum ] will be on display at Elements, as part of the Elements Exhibition, Perspectives: Creating Jewellery for a Fairer Future from October 19-21 at Lyon and Turnbull.

Katharina is exploring the potential of these new materials and using them to inspire new works, while also challenging fast fashion and shedding light on societal waste. We encourage you to take the time to see the results of these live research projects at Elements.

Originally published Oct 3rd, 2018 by Emily MacDonald.

Blog Takeover

Jane Barnett of research consultancy firm, Levin Sources, speaks about commissioning ethically made jewellery

I work for Levin Sources which is a research, assurance, and capacity building consultancy that helps its clients integrate social, environmental, and economic sustainability into their mining and minerals operations and supply chains. It is through my work here as Office Manager, that I really learned about Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining, and the impacts it can have, and so the story of my ring and earrings evolved.

Owning a piece of bespoke jewellery has always been a dream of mine, and that is a dream shared by many. I was, however, daunted by the reality of this. The potential cost alone was enough for me to keep this dream at just that, a fantasy, and nothing more. But it can be something more. I recently discovered that I was wrong to be quite so daunted by this process.

Harriet Kelsall, Fairtrade White Gold Ring with pink and blue sapphires

 

The stones in both the ring and earrings are all sapphires from Nineteen48 in Sri Lanka. I was incredibly privileged to be able to spend the day with Stuart and his team, visiting mine sites and witnessing the transformation of rough sapphires into beautiful gemstones, pictured below, by expert cutters.

Orange Sapphire supplied by Nineteen48Blue Sapphire supplied by Nineteen48

I then visited Hariett Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery and Amanda Li Hope at their respective studios at Halls Green and Hatton Garden. We talked about designs, and thought through the setting of the stones to truly profit from their shapes. We consequently arrived at these beautiful designs.

 

Amanda Li Hope, Cartesian Drop Earrings, Fairtrade Silver and Gold with orange sapphires

 

It was important to me that I matched my ethical gemstones with gold and silver that supported artisanal and small-scale miners. This way I could say that I knew the source of the entire ring; not just the stone.

This is jewellery that I am proud to wear, lucky to own, and grateful to have had created for me, and only me. This isn’t mass-produced, sitting-on-a-shelf, who-knows-where-it-came-from jewellery.

“This is bespoke and ethical and ultimately priceless.”

– Jane Barnett

Originally published on September 28th, by Emily MacDonald

Elements Exhibition

Perspectives: Creating Jewellery for a Fairer Future

Elements: A Festival of Jewellery, Silver & Gold is produced by the Incorporation of Goldsmiths in partnership with fine auctioneers Lyon & Turnbull. Each year, an exhibition is displayed at Elements to complement the selling fair and events programme. The 2018 exhibition, Perspectives: Creating Jewellery for a Fairer Future, has been curated by Fair Luxury and the Incorporation of Goldsmiths, and will be on view for the duration of Elements.

Featuring a range of works that consider the concept of fair making, the exhibition will cast a fresh light on what terms such as ethical luxury can mean and the ways in which we can create jewellery for a fairer future.

Eileen Gatt, Eco Balance Bowls

 

Perspectives aims to raise awareness of issues in the metal, stone and jewellery industries, such as unfair working practices, environmental damage and health and safety risks. Exploring the sourcing of raw materials and highlighting a range of approaches to fairly made jewellery, such as the provenance of metals and stones; the conditions in which makers and miners work; and the environmental and social impact of creating the finished piece. Perspectives will give viewers a detailed picture of what ethical making can look like and the possibilities it opens for both makers and buyers of jewellery and silver.

Sandra Wilson, Gold Chloride Bowl

 

There will be nine sections in the exhibition, each representing a different way to engage with the topic of fair making. The exhibition will feature works made in Fairtrade, Fairmined and Recycled precious metals, as well as works that represent responsible sourcing of precious gemstones. Visitors will also be able to view work made with alternative materials such as repurposed rubber, plastics, and textiles.

The work of Dr Sandra Wilson and her research team from the Love Chemistry Lab at the University of Edinburgh around the possibilities of extracting gold from electronic waste will be showcased as well as the research by Dr Katharina Vones which examines how waste materials can be used to create a new filament for 3D printing.

Perspectives will be on display at the Elements Festival from Oct 19-21, 2018.

Read more about Elements here.

Originally published on October 3rd, 2018 by Emily MacDonald